Celebrating 150 Years of the American Dream

Few sites in the United States fully capture the American dream like a visit to Ellis Island in New York harbor in view of the Statue of Liberty.  It is here that more than 12 million immigrants first stepped foot on American soil and began their lives, for better or worse, as citizens of the United States of America.

Photo courtesy Ellis Island National Monument

Did you know that Ellis Island was opened as a result of the flood of immigrants that came to the United States from Europe after Congress signed the Homestead Act on May 20, 1862?  That’s the act that gave away more than 270 million acres – more than 10 percent of the U.S. land mass – to anyone who would live on that land for five years, work the soil and make a life.

That was a dream come true for most of those Ellis Island immigrants.  Land ownership was controlled by the wealthy gentry in Europe, so the peasants – possibly your ancestors – dreamed of owning land in America.

Your ancestors may not have made it as far west as many who came through Ellis Island, but many of them came for the dream that my family found.  Yes, I am a descendant of a homesteader, and in Beatrice Nebraska, people like  me - descendant of homesteaders - are welcomed as honored guests.

 

Courtesy of the National Park Service

Beatrice Nebraska is where Daniel Freeman and his family homesteaded for nearly 50 years.  His 160 acres is recognized as the very first claimed filed in the Homestead Act, and so it is there that Congress located the Homestead National Monument.

The site of the Freeman Homestead was established as a unit of the National Park Service in 1936.  You see the original Freeman Homestead and the graves of Daniel Freeman and his wife.  There’s a one-room school house, and then there’s the interpretive center, one of the things the National Park Service does so well.

The building that houses the interpretive center is shaped like a plow, one of those fundamental tools that broke the prairie, and the backs of many men and women, while creating the most productive agricultural economy in the world.

Inside, you’ll be asked if you are the descendant of a homsteader.  If so, you’ll sign a special guest book, receive a button and then be offered the opportunity to record the story of your family.  But every visitor will learn that homesteading was more than something that happened in the Great Plains states.  My ancestors homesteaded in Kansas and Arkansas, but homesteaders received land in 30 states, from Florida to Alaska.

The interpretive center does a great job of telling the story from the immigrant’s perspective, but they don’t overlook the impact on Native Americans.  The Homestead Act was a decisive blow to their lifestyle, particularly the Plains Indians.

So May 20 is the 150th Anniversary celebration.  The original Homestead Act of 1862, signed by Abraham Lincoln, will be on display.  There will a panel discussion about the impact of the Homestead Act and the U.S. Air Force Band will perform.

The first time I visited Beatrice was during the annual Homestead Days Celebration, which this year is June 10-17, 2012.  They had parades and barbecue contests and lots of costumed interpreters performing tasks of the period.

But the coolest thing I witnessed was a swearing in ceremony for 14 new citizens of the United States of America.  And not a more beautiful place in the country for such an inspiring event to take place.

 

 

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Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park

In the scope of national parks and canyons, the Grand Canyon in Arizona garners top prize, but in southern Colorado, between Montrose and Gunnison is another canyon that is pretty grand as well.

Photo by Bruce N. Meyer

The Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park is a narrow, deep gorge carved by the Gunnison River, with sheer cliffs rising to heights over 2,000 feet. No other canyon in North America combines such a narrow opening, sheer walls and startling depths, and that’s why it is preserved as a National Park.

Photo by Bruce N. Meyer

The Ute people consider it part of their homeland. The first white people to document it were members of the 1873-74 Hayden expedition.  They said it was inaccessible.

And for the most part, it is inaccessible, unless you are an experienced rock climber.  Those folks love it! Just watching them gives you a new perspective on crazy.

Photo by Bruce N. Meyer

We watched and explored the canyon as a day trip during our visit to Crested Butte and really wished we had had more time for the boat ride or lengthier hikes.  The similarity to the Grand Canyon is that funny vertigo feeling you get when you look into its depths.

Unlike the Grand Canyon, you can’t take a mule ride to the bottom, but you can take a boat ride into the canyon from nearby Morrow Point.  Looks like we’re going to have to make another trip back to Colorado this summer to check it out.

Are you coming with us?

 

 

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Jimmy Buffett’s Sister’s Restaurant in Gulf Shores Alabama

Jimmy Buffett’s Fin-Land Tour is underway again.  Attending the Kansas City concert was a bucket list check-off for Bruce and me last year.

Also on my bucket list has been a visit to his sister Lulu’s restaurant, but after last week’s visit to Gulf Shores, Alabama, I can now check that off the list as well.

Lucy is Jimmy’s baby sister and after the BP oil spill devastated tourism on the beautiful white sand beaches of that region, he gave a concert at his sister’s restaurant to help spread the word that the Gulf coast was alive and well.

But Lulu’s at Homeport Marina is a destination in its own right.  In fact, many people who enjoy the white sand playground, buckets of shrimp and oysters, and bigger buckets of margaritas have no idea the family ties to this great place.

In fact, in the restauarant’s gift shop, you’ll find Lulu’s cookbook, in which Jimmy wrote the foreword, but there’s just a tiny corner of the shop dedicated to the books and music by big brother.

Her ”Crazy Sista Cooking” is a must for anyone who loves a story behind the recipes.  Lulu does that with her “cuisine and conversation.” She tells stories behind the Margarita Cheesecake recipe and shares the menu from her momma’s 80th birthday party, among other treats.  There’s one story about shipping a West Indies Salad to Montana for Christmas that will make you want to alter your traditional holiday recipes.  And then, of course, there’s an entire section devoted to boat food picnic recipes.

You don’t have to wait for Jimmy to make an appearance here to experience great music at Lulu’s.  Almost every night, great local and regional artists are on stage contributing to the low-key, vacation-everyday-atmosphere.  But, come May 26-27, the fun kicks up a notch with LuluPalooza,where  nonstop music rocks the sailboat stage and real boats motor up the intracoastal waterway to pick up on the tunes.

Alabama Caviar - recipe found on page 92

 

 

Whenever you go to Gulf Shores – and you should go often – follow Lulu’s philsophy about cooking and entertaining.  I’m quite sure it’s one that her big brother would approve of:

Play, get crazy!

That's Dylan with a plate of Key Lime Pie with Grand Marnier Whipped Cream. Recipe on page 188.

 

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Stingray City in Kansas City

Stingray City is one of the top attractions in the Cayman Islands, which Bruce and I visited last year.  The “city” is actually a shallow area in the Caribbean, about a 10 minute boat ride from Grand Cayman. 

On a busy day, a dozen or so small boats will back up to the sand bar, and people jump out to stand in about waist deep water.  If you like, the boat captain will hand you some chum, basically chopped up squid and fish and other gross things.  But this is what stingrays eat like candy and they come cruisin’ as soon as they hear the boats and smell the chum.

It’s kind of freaky at first as they fill the water and then Yikes! one will brush you on the leg.  After that first squeal, I calmed down.  The bottom side of a stingray is as soft as a baby’s behind and their touch as gentle as your mother’s. If I wasn’t standing in waist deep water in the middle of the Caribbean, I could have sworn it was my cat brushing up against my leg.

Photo by Bruce N. Meyer

I was thinking of that wonderful encounter with stingrays this weekend as the SeaLife Aquarium opened in Kansas City.  Among the 30 exhibits is one of those wonderful plexiglass tunnels that you walk through and see the fish swimming all around.  Stingrays are among the creatures that swim over head, along with zebra sharks and other marine life.

Photo by Bruce N. Meyer

You don’t get to touch stingrays at this aquarium, but you can hold a crab and touch a starfish.  You see and learn about everything from jelly fish to octopus to seahorses.  Did you know that jellies have no heart, blood or brain?

I prefer to learn about wildlife in their natural environment, (many could argue that Stingray City in the Cayman’s is not a natural environment) but that’s not always possible for everyone.

Photo by Bruce N. Meyer

Even if it is, a visit to places like Kansas City’s new SeaLife Aquarium is a wonderful reminder of the many creatures with which we share this beautiful world.

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Anguilla – Getting There Just Got Easier

Great travel experiences, no matter the destination, always come down to the people you meet along the way.

Photo by Bruce N. Meyer

We met a number of people in Anguilla that were even more fabulous than the 30+ white sand beaches, tropical breezes and the fresh mahi-mahi.

One of them was our taxi driver, Accelyn Connor, who also drives for the rich and famous who appreciate the discrete nature of the Anguillan people and the ability to be unnoticed on this island.  Now he wouldn’t give us any good gossip, but he did mention that he had driven for Sandra Bullock and her family and Shaquille O’Neal.  We also saw pictures of Liam Neesson, President Clinton, and then heard lots of the stories about when Brad Pitt and Jennifer Anniston split.  It was during a lunch at the restaurant on Scilly Cay.

We didn’t see any of the celebs, but neither were we looking that much.

Another great person was Eustace Guishard with the Anguilla Tourist Board.  Despite it being a Friday evening where he had been in business and board meetings all day, followed by a flat tire that almost made him late for our dinner at the Cuisinart Resort and Spa, Mr. Guishard was in high spirits.

Over a dinner of smoked salmon, red fish and pumpkin ravioli, followed by aged Caribbean rum and Cuban cigars, Mr. Guishard offered a greater insight to the Anguillan people, who appear genuinely warm and appreciative to all visitors to their islands.  Guishard says that’s because Anguilla is one of very few Caribbean islands where locals still own most of the land and property.  Their individual fortunes and future are something within their control – not like many other islands where hospitality conglomerates make the majority of the profits.

Photo by Bruce N. Meyer

But he was most excited about a deal that he had just signed earlier in the day that willmake getting to the World’s Best Beach much easier for all of us.

Although there is an airport on the island, most North Americans choose a less expensive route:  fly into St. Maarten and take a ferry to Anguilla, a short 20 minute ride.  If your flight gets in late in the day, you have to spend the night on St. Maarten and then take the ferry from Marigot the next morning. That’s what we did.  It was not a bad experience, but added another leg to the journey.

Photo by Bruce N. Meyer

However, last week, Anguilla and St. Maarten came to an agreement that will allow a new ferry terminal to be built right at the airport.  Customs and immigration will all be handled right there.  You just get off your flight, grab your luggage, walk a hundred yards or so, and you’re on your way to those 30+ perfect white sand beaches.  The ferries are going to run from 7 a.m. until 11 p.m., which will accommodate late arriving flights.

What’s really exciting about this is the construction schedule:  The deal was reached the last week of March.  Construction should begin next week and the whole deal is expected to be up and running by the first of June.

That’s incredible when you consider multiple governmental agencies from two nations are involved.  No island time slowing down this progress.  So, what are you waiting for?

 

 

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Sandhill Crane Migration in Nebraska

The Sandhill Crane Migration is underway in central Nebraska and a noisier gathering there surely is not, with the exception most college basketball arenas in the month of March.

I was in the midst of it last year about this time, and in subsequent stories, I described the unmistakable sound as a “throaty rat-a-tat-tat, a profoundly deep trill that when amplified by the thousands in the early morning light creates one of those Bucket List adventures worth getting out of bed for at 5 a.m. and trudging across a frozen cornfield in middle of winter in the middle of Nebraska.”

Diana Lambdin Meyer photo

Like Old Faithful erupting and Niagara Falls cascading, Nebraska’s spring sandhill crane migration is a spectacle of Mother Nature that should not be missed.

From roughly Valentine’s Day to Tax Day, an estimated 600,000 sandhill cranes – roughly 80 percent of the world’s population of these birds – stop on their way north to feed in the corn fields and roost in the shallow waters of the Platte River valley.

Diana Lambdin Meyer photo

It’s a narrow stretch about 60 miles wide along the river between Grand Island and Kearney where these magnificent water fowl are the most happy and spend about four to six weeks hanging out, getting fat.

Central Nebraska’s massive cornfields provide an abundance of space and plenty of food in the left-over waste from harvest.  The Platte River provides the water and the shallow banks, protected by marsh grasses, provide a protected place to roost at night.

But Nebraska guarantees one other key factor that no other state in the bird’s migratory path provides – safety.

Sandhill cranes are protected in Nebraska.  Hunting them is against the law and the birds know it.  They are safe here, so they stay a while.  They sing, they dance, they eat, they make merry.

It’s not absolutely necessary to get out of bed at 5 a.m. to see the sandhill cranes, but there’s something that happens at that hour you won’t see any other time of day.

As the sun peaks over the horizon, the birds become more chatty and noisy. Then as if on cue, but none that is visible to the human eye, all of a sudden, the entire mass will lift to the sky, at times blocking out the rising sun and creating thousands of sleek, motion-filled silhouettes.

Two great places to learn about it all is at the  Crane Trust Nature and Visitor Center in Alda and the Rowe Nature Sanctuary at Gibbon, Nebraska.    The city of Kearney Nebraska hosts a Crane Watch Festival the last week of March that includes guest lectures, art shows, and other special events.  The Stuhr Museum of the Prairie Pioneer in Grand Island also offers programs and exhibits that highlight Nebraska’s participation in this annual spectacle of nature.

It’s a madness in March with which the NCAA cannot compete.

 

Posted in Midwestern US | Tagged | 1 Comment

Celebrating St. David’s Day

Today (March 1) is St. David’s Day – one of the lesser celebrated holidays in the US – somewhere behind St. Valentine’s Day and St. Patrick’s Day.  But celebrate it we should.

St. David is the patron saint of Wales, and those in Cymru are rejoicing with concerts, parades, and perhaps an over-hyped sale on mattresses or cars or something that has nothing to do with Welsh heritage.  I’m assuming that Penderyn, the Welsh Whisky, plays a large part in these celebrations.

For the records, approximately 1.75 million Americans can claim Welsh ancestry. A big chunk of them settled in Ohio, Pennsylvania and Iowa.  Seven signers of the Declaration of Independence were Welsh-Americans.

Bruce and I visited Wales in October, in part to trace our Welsh heritage.  The outcome of that search will appear in a May issue of AAA’s Home & Away Magazine, so I can’t tell you more than that right now.

During our visit we met a delightful woman named Joanna Masters, who I describe in my story as “an energetic and personable woman who specializes in Welsh genealogy.  She loves digging in old church basements, searching through fragile documents, and climbing around long lost cemeteries.   She celebrates in the stories of those who came from Wales, how they lived their lives and the reasons they did what they did.”

She runs a business called “Where You Are From” and in honor of St. David’s Day, she’s holding a drawing from which she will donate her services to three family historians in search of their Welsh ancestry.

“Perhaps people would like us to go out and take pictures of buildings connected to their family or look up baptism, marriage or burial parish records.  We’re happy to do whatever we can to help them further their knowledge,”she says.

Entries for the free drawing need to be made by 09:00 GMT on the morning of Monday 5th March 2012.  Details can be found at http://familyhistorywales.com/#/st-davids-day/4561331591

May the luck of the Welsh be with you.

Photo by Bruce N. Meyer

 

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Academy Award Winning Story at Heart Mountain Wyoming

Admittedly, the documentary category is not one of the high drama moments in the Academy Awards ceremony.  As a result few people will remember, in 1991, when director Steven Okasaki won an Oscar for the documentary “Days of Waiting” about a Caucasian woman interned along with 120,000 Japanese Americans during World War II.

Okasaki has been nominated for an Oscar four times, but his most recent production “All We Could Carry” was not among them.

I, however, was honored this past weekend to see this 15-minute masterpiece in Cody, Wyoming.  Located just 50 miles south of Yellowstone National Park, Cody was the site of one of ten internment camps for Japanese Americans.  It received its name Heart Mountain from the majestic mountain near the camp, but there was nothing romantic about what took place here between August 1942 and November 1945.

The drive east out of Cody to Heart Mountain is through the high desert, and this weekend it was bitterly cold.  The wind was blowing so hard that at one point I lost my footing and fell.  But I was wearing a nice down coat, snow pants and boots, riding in a cozy warm SUV.

That’s not how the Japanese arrived at Heart Mountain and for three years, nearly 14,000 Japanese Americans endurred here with only the clothes on their backs and “all they could carry.”  They came from California and they weren’t wearing down or fleece.

From the outside, the visitors center, which opened last August, is not impressive. In fact, it’s quite ugly and depressing, and that’s how it’s supposed to be.  The black, barracks-style buildings reflect the design of the living quarters hastily assembled for those uprooted from their homes, businesses, communities and lives on America’s west coast.  At the time, President Roosevelt and most Americans felt this was necessary for national security.

So this museum is their story.  It’s a first person narrative of what some have called legalized racism.  Even though many of these individuals were first and second generation American citizens, they lost their rights to vote, to own property and all that is guaranteed in the Fifth Amendment of the U.S. Constitution.  However, 800 men from Heart Mountain were drafted and served in combat in Europe.  Two won the Congressional Medal of Honor.

This is not a pretty chapter of American history, and I admit, I was disturbed as I left the visitor center and looked out over the landscape that had been almost as cruel to these individuals as their government.

The story of Heart Mountain may not have received an Academy Award, although it deserves one, and equally it deserves our time and attention.  Each year, nearly three million people visit nearby Yellowstone National Park.  If you are one of them, make that drive south into Cody Wyoming and spend a few hours at Heart Mountain.  It will be time better spent than any you have devoted to Hollywood’s more celebrated stories.

 

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Mardi Gras – Let the Good Times Roll

Mardi Gras festivities have been underway for days, even weeks in places like St. Louis, Mobile Alabama, and of course anyplace within shouting distance of the boundaries of Louisiana.  Let the good times roll.

If you’re not into the madness of the party and are otherwise fully stocked on your supply of beads, there are still places to visit in quieter days that allow you to understand and appreciate the Mardi Gras culture without the need to expose body parts.

The largest Mardi Gras museum in the US is in an old school house in Lake Charles, Louisiana. The Imperial Calcasieu Museum tells the global history of Mardi Gras, along with the best recipes for King Cake, the importance of costume design and much more.

The museum houses more than 1,000 costumes in six former classrooms.  As you wander through the displays, you are encourage to dance a little fais do-do as long as you are there. Don’t worry about having no rhythm.  Painted footsteps on the floor will tell you where you are supposed to be when.

You can’t help but appreciate the detailed brilliance of these hand-made costumes.  Some of them weigh up to 65 pounds, and the revelers will revel in these into the wee hours.  Talk about a great cardio work-out.

And then, there’s the little cafe to sit and enjoy King Cake, that wonderful pastry with a Baby Jesus baked inside.

Such delights as these should not be celebrated just once a year.  Visit any day of the year in Lake Charles Louisiana.

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Chocolate and Mexico this Valentine’s Day

Valentine’s Day and chocolates are one of those eternal partnerships, kind of like the Super Bowl and wardrobe malfunctions.  You think of one and you automatically think of the other.

The partnership between an abandoned warehouse in Springfield, Missouri and the farmers in the tiny village of Soconusco, Mexico, is not so obvious, but it is a love story worth sharing this Valentine’s season.

When you walk into the former railroad supply building in Springfield, your nose tingles with the sharp aroma of cacao beans, an aroma similar to chocolate, but this is just a little tangier.  Chocolate, of course, is a by-product of cacao beans, but the distinct aroma here is the link to Soconusco, Mexico and an aroma the world hasn’t experienced in more than 100 years.

Shawn Askinosie, a burned-out criminal defense attorney from Springfield, needed another outlet for his passions and energy and began thinking about chocolate.  He traveled throughout South and Central America studying the cacao harvest, and there discovered the distinct flavor of Soconusco chocolate.  For thousands of years, farmers in the coastal community near the Guatemalan border grew this distinct cacao that became a sign of wealth and superiority in the Aztec Empire.  But the modern world forgot Soconusco chocolate until Shawn Askinosie wandered into the region in 2007.

He bought a couple of bags of beans and began making that distinct flavor of chocolate in the abandoned warehouse in Springfield.  The first commercial batch of Askinosie Chocolate went on sale in May 2007, just in time for Mother’s Day, and it was a big hit in the community. Askinosie’s chocolate is reported to be 65 times higher in anti-oxidants than broccoli with approximately 600 orac units per gram.

Shawn continued to expand his efforts and began placing the chocolate in high-end gift shops and selling it online.  In the first year, he bought six tons of cacao beans from Soconusco, something no one had done in a century.

But it was not until that December that Shawn really did something cool.  He flew back to Soconusco and presented those farmers with their first profit-sharing check.  They get 10 percent of whatever he makes, in addition to the earnings from the cacao beans he purchases from them.

Yeah, that’s pretty cool Shawn.  But even better, he brought them a big box of chocolate bars made from the beans they had raised.  The people of Soconusco had never tasted their own chocolate before Shawn Askinosie came along.

Think about that this Valentine’s Day as you consider buying chocolate for those you love.  Give them something really special, like Shawn Askinosie gave the people of Soconusco Mexico.

 

Posted in Cuisine, Midwestern US | Tagged | 1 Comment